Day 49, 50 & 51: Travel to Bad River Channel & Beaverstone Bay

Day 49: September 5: We were pretty sure we were anchored on granite here on Bustard Island so we kept checking our position. Our anchor is held by all chain; putting out 75 feet in 16 feet of water under pristine conditions most certainly provides secure holding as long as the anchor has something to sink into. But you can never take anything for granted. Luckily, there must have been just enough mud for the anchor to grab hold but the chain did continue sliding on the granite throughout the night, creating a haunting sound. The anchor alarm went off at one point during the night alerting us that we had swung out beyond the boundary settings. Being that the anchorage is narrow, there wasn't any room for error so John had set the parameters tightly. When the boat moves beyond that limit, the alarm notifies us of the change. Tight quarters are always more challenging if you are concerned about the possibility of dragging. 

It was a lovely morning. The bright sunshine and gentle breeze promised a delightful day of travel. We watched as the two sailboats that had spent the night, pulled anchor and slowly meandered out of the inlet. John and I were up on the flybridge when he spied something swimming in the opening leading from the east to west side of the anchorage. He yelled "what the heck is that? A moose swimming across the gap?" I grabbed the binoculars and recognized the shape and movement of a black bear climbing out of the water onto shore. As it sauntered along the shore in and out of the tree-line, we caught a real clear glimpse of him when he emerged from behind the bush into a clearing. Not long after, I heard the ever-present call of a loon. Then another off in the distance answering. Looking up I saw them in flight one behind the other; it was pretty awesome to hear them calling while flying! When in such incredible surroundings spotting and hearing wildlife, you can't help but feel something magical. 

As we were getting ready to get UW John noticed Squier About's stern line was not attached to the tree it had been secured to. At first, we thought they were getting ready to leave but then realized the line had come undone. John jumped in the dinghy and together he and Peter were able to tow the boat to a safe area. Fortunately, Peter did correct the windlass problem last night so not being able to anchor safely should not be an issue for him going forward.

We got UW and headed out of the east entrance. As we came around the island, we saw Zendeavor cruising out of the west entrance. Onward: three buddy boats traveled about 8 miles in just over an hour to the Bad River Channel, situated close to the French River. The trip was pleasant; we always relish the times when the seas are kind. 

Entering the channel, we were amazed by the terrain. Pink granite welcomed us into a stunning passage into the small cover. 

Another boat was already anchored with its stern line attached to rocks. We had read that lots of people tie up to the jagged outcrops or metal pins that have been drilled into the granite. Although it was probably not needed, as there was no current or wind, all 3 boats took advantage of the pins and rock and secured sterns to shore. Perhaps it was overkill! We looked like we were prepared to stay for a week or more. 

As incredibly stunning the granite walls are, the highlight of the day was taking the dinghies through Devil's Rapids. We followed Pete and Kim, marveling at the beauty around us. We stayed together to be available should a breakdown occur. Our dinghy is still giving us trouble and we would not want to have to paddle! 

The cruise was everything I had read about. We meandered through narrow passages, floundered through some strong currents and made out way up to a large area of rushing rapids. John and I continue to be amazed at the scenery, often commenting how we would never have known any of this existed if not for this trip. It's something most people will never see. 

When we got back to the boat I couldn't resist going for a swim in the crystal clear water. As usual John claimed it was too cold. It was really refreshing! We also noticed a couple of large birds on shore, pecking at the ground. At first we thought they were herons but realized they were some kind of cranes. We did a little research and found out they were sandhill cranes. David told us those are plentiful in Alabama and are just like filet mignon 😀😀😀. You can just about make one out in the picture.

As dusk began to fall, we rode over toward David's boat and climbed onto the top of a rock to watch the sunset. Our docktails turned into rocktails. It was glorious!

Day 50: September 6: Knowing that no one can get through the first lock in Chicago before October 1st due to it being under repairs, we realize we should slow down. It makes no sense to get to Chicago only to have to wait around with all of the other Loopers getting closer and closer to the lock. I'm sure the area will soon get congested and it might be a bit of a mess as soon as the light turns green and we all get the go ahead. In fact, the AGLCA has issued a survey requesting members who are currently on the loop and planning to go through Chicago to provide an expected date of arrival. AGLCA is cooperating with the Army Corps of Engineers to organize Loopers' passing through the lock in groups, knowing there will be a backlog of boats anxious to get through. We are hoping to pass around the second week in October. 

With that said, our original plan was to stay another day in Bad River but our friends from Squier About told us they were going to move on as they have a tighter schedule than we do. Peter has an appointment for surgery so has to get home for that. Once he has recovered, he and Kim will resume their travels and complete the loop. Since they were leaving and it has been fun traveling together, David and Sandra and we changed our plans and decided to head out as well. Although we were leaving a perfect spot behind, we know there will be much more to come. 

Georgian Bay was once again calm so traveling the 18 miles in 2 1/2 hours to Beaverstone Bay was quite pleasant. 

We turned to starboard to enter the Beaverstone which, compared to the spot we had left, is huge. Besides two small boats we saw exiting the entrance while we entered, there is not a soul in sight. It feels so remote; there is no boat traffic, the few cottages on shore look like they have been closed up for the season and fall is in the air. There are several small islands scattered throughout the bay, all rocky and tree-lined. 

Once we got deeper into the bay, Peter called on the radio and said he and Kim had decided to keep going into Collins Inlet and on to the Killarney Lodge and Marina. He noted it was a good day to travel and they really wanted to be sure to be able to be far enough into the trip to make their appointments. Zendeavor and we decided to stay. We tucked in against a northern shore as we expected northerly winds to kick up to 10 to 20 overnight. The hope is that the land mass will block the brunt of any kind of strong wind. 

David and Sandra dinghied over to our boat for happy hour and a small dinner of burgers, pasta salad and potatoes as well as great conversation and some hearty laughter. Before we knew it, it was 9:00 and raining. Luckily our guests had come prepared with their raincoats. Off they went to their boat; we were pleased when we saw their anchor light turn on. 

Day 51: September 7: John woke up a few times last night to check our position, although the wind did not blow as strongly as we had anticipated and the water remained very calm. The boat did not rock at all; in fact, aside from a few swings, we didn't feel any movement all night. 

We remained at anchor all day as it is not the nicest day to travel. It's quite chilly, overcast and damp, with the wind blowing around 6 to 10. It was a good day to read, do a little housekeeping and watch a move. John had picked up some free ones that were available at Wright's Marina and our friends brought some over last night. Our show of choice for this dreary day was Scarface! An oldie but goodie. 

As soon as we finished the movie, David dinghied over to pick John up to go fishing. They trolled around the bay for several hours and caught 3 small mouth bass! David also caught a northern pike but threw him back as he said pike was very bony. What a treat to have fresh fish for dinner. Sandra prepared it the way she does in Alabama! Fried with hushpuppies and beans. Delicious.