Day 63: The Soo to Whitefish Point
Day 63: September 19: Since we still have some time "to kill" before we can get through the 3 locks that are located about 40 miles south of Chicago, we decided to extend our side trip and cruise to Whitefish Point. We wanted to go for a couple of reasons; to go to the Shipwreck Museum and to travel on Lake Superior. We left George Kemp Marina at 10:00 a.m. and made our way to the Canadian lock (number 23) which is smaller than the U.S. locks and can not handle lakers; it serves pleasure craft well. We made it around the buoy and entered the channel leading to the lock. Travel through this small stretch involves running through a swift current. We could see the rapids to our port, caused by the elevation changes that exist between Superior and St Marys River. St Marys which is 74.5 miles long, connects Lake Superior with the other Great Lakes. There is a section of the river known as the St. Marys rapids where the water falls about 23 feet from the level of Lake Superior to the lower lakes.
Rather than tie up at the wall, we idled for awhile, assuming the lock would open pretty quickly once our presence was known as is the practice. We waited longer than usual and David (who was in front of us) finally called the the lock only to find out that there was a valve problem. The lock-master informed us he he wasn't sure when the lock would be ready, recommending we tie up to the wall. We did manage to tie port side with no damage despite the wall being concrete and in pretty bad shape. Once tied, we waited for the lock-master's signal; in the end it took us about an hour to get through the lock from the time we left the marina.
While in the lock we chatted with the lock-master. We asked about the beautiful buildings along the lock, wondeirng if they were made of the pink granite we saw throughout Canada. He told us they were sandstone and noted some of the buildings had been standing for at least 100 years. He also told us the U.S. was building a new super lock that will be able to handle the lakers that continue to get bigger and bigger. This lock is expected to be completed in 2030! As we exited the lock we saw the excavation equipment on the U.S. side, digging out the bedrock.
As we exited the locks 2 tour boats headed our way. We all proceeded slowly, giving each other enough room to get through safely.
Some people will simply travel through the lock to say they cruised on Superior; not us! We committed to a trip on Whitefish Bay on Superior to Whitefish Point. It took us about 5 hours to travel 36 miles on calm seas. Along the way we saw plenty of lakers, a Coast Guard boat fly by and numerous buoys and navigation markers, including a Gros Cap Light which is a lighthouse that serves as a traffic signal for mariners in dangerous bodies of water.
Once enroute on a straight course with hardly anything to dodge, John can take a break and watch the autopilot track from a comfortable position. Of course I also keep my eye out in case he falls asleep on the job!
We made it to Whitefish Point Harbor Inlet which is an entirely artificial harbor on the NW side of Whitefish Bay about 1 mile SW of the tip of Whitefish Point. The harbor is protected by breakwaters on the N, S and E sides and serves as a harbor of refuge. It is mostly used by commercial boats, including the David Boyd research vessel. She is a 47' survey vessel whose primary mission is to research and document historic shipwrecks of Lake Superior. David pulled in ahead of us; the wind was creating a bit of difficulty so we waited a good distance away so he had room to maneuver. Men working on the David Boyd gave him a hand and he was safely in. We followed right behind, tying up bow first.
I meandered onto the beach just to check out our surroundings. The shoreline, covered with the colorful stones of of Michigan, smoothed and polished by the relentless lapping of the water, reminded me of our trips to Michigan to visit A.J when he was stationed here. A day such as this is one to be appreciated as we never know what tomorrow may bring.
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