Day 118: November 13: We rolled out of bed at 6am & were on the road by 6:30, headed for the Smoky Mountain National Park. As usual the day started with a chill but warmed nicely as the sun rose higher throughout the day. The drive to the park took about an hour or so. After days of traveling by boat up the Tennessee River and looking forward to a visit to the great Smokies, we were excited when we came upon our first sign; we had arrived.
The Great Smoky Mountains remains America's most visited national park, boasting 13 million visitors a year. The mountains are home to an amazing diversity of wildlife and some of the largest stands of old-growth forest in the eastern U.S. For thousands of years there has also been a human side to the mountain's story. From trails created by Cherokee people (research revealed Cherokees and their ancestors have been in the Cove area for thousands of years with recent research indicating that occupation began no later than 8000 B.C.) to the still standing structures (homes, mills, churches & schools), we can gain an idea of how people lived and thrived in this wilderness.
We chose the popular 11 mile Cades Cove route. This particular cove is a showcase for some of the most spectacular natural and cultural treasures that the Southern Appalachian Mountains have to offer. We stopped at some of the over 80 historic buildings including the John Oliver Place, an excellent example of the homes early settlers built. John Oliver arrived in the cove prior to 1820 and bought land in 1826. The property remained in the family until the park was established more than 100 years later. Imagine clearing land and building homesteads with only mules, muscles, simple tools and a community spirit. Cabins like the John Oliver remind us of the early settlers' perseverance and fortitude.
Methodists, along with Baptists, established churches in the early 1800's. We visited the simple Methodist building and walked through the adjoining cemetery where some of the early settlers lie. The number of grave-markers for infants, some of whom did not survive a day, was sobering. Really makes you appreciate modern medicine and technology.
Both the Baptist and Methodist churches struggled with turmoil during the Civil War era due to divisions between the Union and Confederates. Official correspondence from the Baptist church stated "We the Primitive Baptist Church in Blount County in Cades Cove, do show the public why we have not kept up our church meeting. It was on account of the Rebellion and we was Union people and the Rebels was too strong here in Cades Cove. Our preacher was obliged to leave sometimes, and thank God we once more can meet."
We stopped at several visitors' centers along the route, hoping there was a video about the park and to ge t John's stamp (he collects them from National Parks). A herd of elks is prevalent at one of the centers. It was fun watching the huge animals wade in the river, emerge from the woods and meander (with prodding by the rangers) into a large open field. This is an attempt to keep them and tourists a safe distance apart. We never saw a bull but we heard one bellow from the woods. It was pretty cool to hear that trumpet in the wild!
Sandra and I hiked part of the Laurel Falls Trail. The trail ascends Cove Mountain past Laurel Falls, one of the park's most popular sites. John and David did not join us; they missed an opportunity to stretch their legs on a lovely trail.
We only walked the 1.3 miles up to the falls, not choosing to climb another 1.3 miles to the top.
We were gone for about 45 minutes, just enough time for John and David to grab a catnap.
Glorious mountain views.
We rode through the town of Cherokee just to see the town before turning around and heading for Clingmans Dome which in Cherokee means mulberry place. "At an elevation of 6,643 feet, it is the highest mountain in the Smoky National Park and the highest point in the state of Tennessee and the highest point along the 2,192 mile Appalachian Trail.
It was so warm as we hiked up the path which is surrounded by balsam trees. The sweet fragrance of evergreens filled the air, conjuring up thoughts of Christmas. We took our time with the climb making sure not to overtax ourselves. We know we are not as young as we used to be.
Very close to the observation tower we saw a sign denoting a place where the Appalachian Trail crosses. In our younger days we considered walking at least a portion of the Appalachian Trail. Now was our chance; John walked into the woods about 20 yards, snapped a picture and walked out. Another milestone accomplished!
It started to get really cold and the wind picked up tremendously as we climbed the ramp to the observation tower. Getting close to the edge was a bit unnerving; a reminder to self, do not look down!
The views were breathtaking and well worth the climb and dealing with the cold and blasting wind.
We spent the entire day riding through the park, around curves, climbing high then twisting around more bends until we reached the valleys. On the way back to the boats we rode through Gatlinburg, all decked out for the holiday season. It's certainly a tourist town to beat all tourist towns. Gatlinburg is known as the Gateway to the Smoky Mountains so throngs of people descend upon it for most of the year, especially in the height of the summer months and Christmas season. We drove straight through with no desire to stop and have to compete with the swell of people.
It would be pretty late before we made it to the dock so we stopped at El Machete for some Mexican food! Quite the name for a restaurant for sure!
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