Day 143: December 8: The first thing we did this morning was go juggin. Mona, Frank, John and I took on the task of finding the 7 jugs that had been put out the night before. We were able to find all but one for quite awhile so we had to retrace our dinghy steps until we finally located it quite a way up the river. In the end we caught one fish different from the other catfish we had been catching. David said it was what is called a polywog and good to eat. John had a hard time getting the hook out. Although I absolutely love eating the fish, I don't like seeing them caught. I'll leave that to someone else.
On the way back to the boats I was able to snap this pretty picture of the 3 amigos rafted together!
Time to get UW so we released Zendeavor and Summer Fling and watched them carefully make their way out of the cove; we then pulled our bow and stern anchors. Zendeavor radioed back to be sure we were okay and UW which we were. Onto the Black Warrior-Tombigbee, heading south.
In my opinion this stretch of the waterway lost some of the beauty we have seen along the way. The very low water levels have exposed so much of the erosion, houses poised on waterfront property that looks sad and worn and uprooted trees lying on the banks just waiting for a chance to slide into the water and cause havoc. I think the absence of gorgeous colors accentuates the dreary vista.
Having said that, we did enjoy certain stretches of sandy shores; it reminded us of home, especially Cherry and Webb, fondly known as Boat Beach. The orange banks showed off their beauty and we never tired of the reflections in the water.
We also passed Bobby's Fish Camp. It is known as a Looper favorite; I think for the restaurant that is no longer open. Nothing fancy, just a dock to tie up on, diesel, showers and ice. Not needing anything, we just rolled on by.
We contacted the Coffeeville Lock which is the last lock southbound. The very friendly Lock-master responded he would have the lock ready for us ASAP. We ended up waiting for about 1/2 hour before we were able to enter the chamber. Once locked through, we were back near sea level and in salt water and tides, having traveled in fresh water without tides for hundreds of miles. Wondering if we will miss the locks? Also knowing we do not look forward to salt splashing on the boat! Fresh water has something going for it.
We traveled 53.5 NM in 7 hours today, ending at tonight's anchorage at Threes Rivers Lake. The entrance to the anchorage was narrow but depths were good. We moved in past the leaning trees, ending up at a spot where the water opened up. Rafting worked well and we had a very peaceful night.
Day 144: December 9: Another foggy morning. Sandra, Frank, John and David climbed into the dinghy to fetch the jugs. They disappeared into the depths of the mist, leaving Mona and me behind.
The juggin crew was gone for about 2 long hours. We couldn't imagine what was taking so long; we quipped about what we could or couldn't do if they never returned! Small bass boats traveled by our boats during that time. All but 1 were respectful, slowing down so as not to wake us. Finally our group returned; empty handed!
The fog dissipated so we prepared to get UW. Our goal for the day was an anchorage on Bottle Creek off the Tensaw River.
Our travels took us by Mile 45 which is where the Alabama River joins the Tombigbee to form the Mobile River.
From this point south it is more reminiscent of the Georgia swamps than a river. It is still necessary to anchor in safe places, not just anywhere along these rivers as they are used by commercial tows. We did notice an increase in tow/barge travel over the last two days or so.
We turned into the Tensaw River, traveled around a bend into Bottle Creek where we dropped the hook in about 15'. It's a beautiful, secluded spot that not many people visit. I understand why as it is remote and a bit creepy the further into the creek or its branches.
David told us about the the Bottle Creek Indian Mounds, a site that contains more than 18 burial mounds, the tallest rising approximately 52 feet above the swamp. Only accessible by boat, it was something we looked forward to seeing. Luckily for us, our private guide, David has traveled these waters for years and knew where to find the path leading to the mounds. He remembers visiting them with his dad when he was a youngster. He told us so much about the area including how there used to be hunting camps set up all along the banks; only to be taken over and destroy by the state over time.
All six of us climbed into Frank's dinghy and set off up the creek in search of the trail. The area is so different than anything we have seen. Definitely a swamp like area with side creeks running off the main waterway. David noted that folks do get lost up here so search and rescue facilities, manned by the sheriff department, have been built along the creek itself. That is certainly an eerie feeling and the movie Deliverance came to mind.
We rode to the path, almost unnoticeable except to someone who knows what to look for. The hike to the mounds was lovely, filled with palmettos. David told us how this entire area has been under water at times when the river floods. Foliage dies and animals such as wild boar and deer scatter to higher ground until the water subsides.
Bottle Creek located in Baldwin County, is one of the most important prehistoric Native American sites in Alabama. It was occupied from about 1250 and served as the principal political and religious center for what is now called Pensacola culture for the three centuries prior to European contact. It continued to be a significant site for local Indians well into the eighteenth century. It is now owned by the state of Alabama and was declared a National Historic Landmark on March 10, 1995.
After enjoying the visit to the mounds, we clambered back into the dinghy and rode further into some more creeks. As we headed back to the boats we hung the fishing jugs once again, hopeful that we will once again have fish for dinner tomorrow.
Dinner and laughs followed and we tucked in for a peaceful night.
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| Sunset |
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