Day 186: Visit to Everglades City

Day 186: January 20: A beautiful sunrise appeared over the mangroves this morning; giving meaning to the lyrics from "Smoke on the Water", there truly was fire in the sky. The breeze was strong and a chill was in the air, leftover from last night's dipping temperatures. 

Around 9 a.m. we climbed aboard the dinghy and started the 3.5 to 4 mile trek up the channel to civilization. The wind against the tide created quite a chop, especially in the more open area not protected by the small mangrove islands. White caps are not a pleasant thing to battle in a dinghy and by the time we reached our destination I was a bit soaked. 

Our first stop was at the Everglades National Park Visitors Center. Despite there being a ramp used by kayak and canoe rentals, John tied the dinghy to a nearby concrete wall at the edge of a dredging area. We managed to clamber up the wall, only to find we were in a construction site cordoned off by a chain link fence, obviously to prevent folks from entering the property. Unable to find a way out, we headed back to the dinghy where we noticed an opening along a rocky barricade. In true pioneer spirit, we scrambled our way over the rocks in our quest to reach the visitors' center. 

As it turned out, the visitors' center is only a temporary building set up to support the national park's ability to enhance folks' experience in the Everglades. The ranger explained this is actually the 2nd temporary center, the first one having destroyed by Hurricane Irma in September 2017. The nearby construction site is home to what will be the Marjory Stoneman Douglas Visitor Center in honor of author and environmental advocate of the same name. Once completed, the facility will include a new two-story building built for resiliency to withstand hurricane-force winds. It will include visitor orientation, retail space, offices and an elevated observation deck providing views of nearby Chokoloskee Bay. 

For now, we were stuck with the one room building which did not have much to offer but John was able to get his National Park stamp to add to his collection. 

After our visit we meandered further up the channel along the Barron River to Everglades City, passing by the historic Rod and Gun Club. Originally built upon a foundation laid by the first permanent settler around 1864, it was purchased by wealthy rancher and industrialist, Barron Collier in 1922 and converted into a private residence for his wealthy friends and dignitaries. As is so often the fate of historic buildings, the club fell into disrepair and was in line to be condemned. Fortunately the Bowen family, Michigan natives, purchased the property and restored it to its former glory, including the antique gas pump out on the dock.

We tied the dinghy up to Summer Fling where she was docked at Everglades Isle, a luxurious motor coach resort and marina. Frank and Mona met up with us and took us around the marina's impressive property and into town on a golf cart. Evidently carts are allowed on all but the main roadways in the small town, population 367 in 2021. 

We visited the Museum of the Everglades. First opened in 1927 as a commercial laundry, the building is one of several historic structures still standing as a testament to the town's time as a once-bustling center of business. The museum is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. We were quite impressed with the artifacts and displays that provided a glimpse into the history and culture of the Everglades and the city itself. 

Another historic building located in Everglades City is the Bank of Everglades, built in 1927 for Barron Gift Collier. The bank remained in the building until 1962 when it was relocated to Imokalee. It was then used as a rooming house and a Bed & Breakfast until it closed in 1927. Hurricane Irma and the elements have taken a toll on this lovely building. The Everglades Society for Historic Preservation has a goal of preserving this iconic structure. 

For lunch we headed to Camellia Street Grill, a funky restaurant with lots of rustic charm. Among other odds and ends and memorabilia from the swamps decorating the counters and walls, brightly painted crab pots hang on the outer wall. We placed our order at the counter, choosing from the many fresh seafood options then found a table on the open patio, relishing the warm sunshine. Catfish baskets, onion strings and crab salad made for a tasty lunch. 

After lunch John and I headed back to our anchorage, wanting to reach the boat well before dark. The wind and tide were with us on the way back, making the ride much more comfortable than the morning's journey.