Day 211 & 212: Elizabeth City

Day 211: May 13: A chilly morning brought mist, known as sea fog or smoke, along the shoreline. The tiny droplets of water suspended in the air, reflected in the still water, created a sense of mystery. 

We pulled the anchor and proceeded along the Alligator River, heading to Elizabeth City across the Albemarle Sound. The wind was almost nonexistent, confirming we had made the right decision yesterday. Crossing the sound can be nasty; similar to conditions we experience on Buzzards Bay. 

As we approached the Alligator Bridge (vertical clearance 14'), the bridge-tender, watching for oncoming boat traffic, radioed us asking for the vessel name and CG documentation number. He instructed us to continue until we were about 200 yards from the bridge before slowing down and he would open up for us. We were pleased by his friendly and professional manner; the trip is always more enjoyable when folks like him are welcoming and helpful. 

We had originally planned on docking at one of the many available free docks offered in Elizabeth City. However, as we approached the harbor, the wind was picking up and a pretty good chop was building. Reviews reported boats can take a beating in any kind of east wind so we made the decision to travel through the Elizabeth City Bridge and find a spot on the other side. 

I called Jennette Bros., a food service distributor that offers free dockage, to ascertain whether they had space. They are located immediately past the bridge and would provide a much more protected spot. We were told the dock was pretty long and there were only two boats on it so we would most likely fit. We contacted the bridge-tender and passed through what is a terribly busy causeway. 

Once through the bridge we saw the dock actually had 3 boats tied. I didn't think we would fit but Captain John was confident; it was a tight squeeze but we were assisted by fellow boaters so were able to tuck in quite nicely at the tip of the bridge with the bow sticking into a small culvert. 

Jennette Bros. offers the dock space and promotes "Dock and Dine". All they ask in return is that you eat at one of the local restaurants. The lady we spoke to said the owners' philosophy is that the system benefits the community and them in return. What goes around come around!

Elizabeth City prides itself on being the Harbor of Hospitality. In 1983, in impromptu wine and cheese party for visiting boaters was hosted by local residents Fred Fearing and Joe Kramer. This event started a tradition that continues today. Rose Buddies, as the group has become to be known, are internationally known for providing legendary hospitality to travelers. Both men have since passed away but the tradition has flourished. Sometimes boaters are greeted by a Rose Buddy bearing a welcome package. We were welcomed by Dockmaster Dan who helps boaters out at the town free docks, Jennettes and the Christian Academy which also offers dockage and hot showers. 

Having been on the hook for the past two weeks, we were looking forward to dining out. Being a Monday, many restaurants were closed. We found Tooley's Tavern; conversation was friendly and the food was good! 

Clouds rolled in, obscuring what might have been a splendid sunset. Another view, a different perspective. 

Day 212: May 14: It was a drizzly day but any real rain held off until the evening, making walking around the city quite pleasant. We visited the Welcome Center where we learned about the shops and restaurants and received the traditional rose pin. Next stop was the Museum of the Albemarle whose mission is to promote the understanding of history and culture of the Albemarle region through the collection and preservation of artifacts and story telling of the people and events that shaped the area. The 50,000 square foot facility overlooks the Pasquatank Riverwhich flows into the Albemarle Sound, connecting with the Atlantic Ocean. 

The impressive exhibits illustrate Albemarle's history; its people, how wars such as the Civil War, affected the area, how railroads and automobiles made their way to North Carolina, slavery and more. 

A 100 year old shad boat was displayed at the top of the stairs leading to the exhibit hall. Shad boats are the official state boats of North Carolina. they were first developed around Roanoke Island after the Civil War, when a shortage of suitable trees for "periaugers", a wooden boat created by digging out a log, then splitting it and adding at least one keel plank between the halves. The design was limited geographically to the area from Elizabeth City to Ocracoke Island. 

After our visit we stopped at Dollar General for a few items and checked out Seven Sounds Brewing Company, one of the few breweries in the city. Located in the historic Hurdle Hardware building, the brewery and taproom boast charm and an expansive venue. Craft beer can be enjoyed while relaxing on comfortable furniture, listening to music or sitting outside overlooking the Pasquotank River. 

Also located in the heart of Elizabeth City is Coast Guard Air Station Elizabeth City. This flagship station has been instrumental in leading the region in search and rescue missions and is one of the largest and busiest CG air stations in the U.S. 

After a busy day we braved the raindrops and made our way to Quality Seafood for some fried oysters and scallops! A perfect ending to a great day!