Day 7-9: July 25-27 Fort Plain to Sylvan Beach

Day 7: July 25. We woke to thick fog today and cooler temperatures. For a moment it felt like we were back home on Horseneck Road where our view to Cuttyhunk is often obscured by fog.

Not wanting to travel right away John started to work on making a screen for the bow window. We already have screens on the v-berth and state room hatches but if we intend on leaving the bow window or doors open screens will be needed. So far we haven't had a problem but I'm sure we will in certain areas as people have posted on the Great Loop Facebook page. Good day to get that project done.

After a couple of hours the fog began to lift and once again it got hot! It was already getting late to get UW as our plans were to travel to Little Falls (Lock 17) and spend some time there before heading to Lock 20 in Marcy, NY for the night. The lockmaster at a previous lock told us Little Falls was very nice place to stop to take a walk or grab some lunch. We also look forward to checking out Moss Island.

Since we are in a comfortable spot right now we decided to stay put for the day and get a full day of travel in tomorrow. Here are a couple of shots of the area. It is used as a campsite, a place where people walk their dog or fish or just relax. You can see a camper in the distance beside a couple of tents. There are grills, picnic tables, potable water and and electricity hook up. Lots of bikers camp overnight here and continue along the Empire State Trail first thing in the morning.

Jonathan and Morgan used the grill to cook up some corn, potatoes and burgers. We joined them for lunch with a promise to share some ice cream later on in the day. As we get to know this young adventurous couple we are hitting it off quite well. They are interesting and easy to hang with. Being from Surry, VA they of course have a different accent than we do. I learned a new word for something that is messed up or crooked...Wapajawed! We taught them a few things too like pahk the cah.

John and I walked a mile or so into town to purchase Stewart's ice cream. We were told that is the brand of the area! We ended the day with a game of Blokus and ice cream!

Day 8: July 26: Another morning of fog. Fortunately it did not last too long and we got UW at about 10:00a.m. We were completely amazed at the stillness of the river. It was just like a mirror, almost creating a mirage as the trees reflected into the water. Enough said! I could not help but take picture after picture.

We also passed other interesting sites before we locked through Lock 17 in Little Falls. Along the way was Johnsville Municipal Marina and campsite that offered fuel, ice and water. This far up the river it was kind of a stand alone marina but there were plenty of campers tucked in behind the trees and I'm assuming a few boats up a small stream off the main river. We also came across cement obstructions and danger buoys warning folks not to turn to starboard as you would take a fun trip down a dam! Something we never want to do.

We also caught site of the Herkimer Home State Historic Site. It is a Georgian style mansion that was home to General Nicholas Herkimer. Construction of his residence was completed around 1794. General Herkimer is remembered for leading 800 militiamen and 60 allied Oneida warriors against a British seige at Fort Stanwix. "Considered to be a significant turning point in the Revolutionary War, the Battle of Oriskany has been described as one of the bloodiest battles of the war." General Herkimer was wounded, and died shortly after from complications of a leg amputation. I found the following fact to be of great interest. Herkimer's estate was home to many over the years, including his family, enslaved people who helped run the estate, soldiers camped during the war and neighbors seeking refuge from the fighting in the Mohawk Valley.

A great highlight was traveling through Lock 17 at Little Falls. This lock is referred to as an engineering marvel. It is the largest lock in NY state, lifting boats 40.5 feet. The doors close in guillotine style, leaving occupants of the chamber in a large, dank space waiting to be elevated to the top. We anticipated traveling through this lock all day after hearing a lot about it. As we have been for most locks along the way, we were alone in the chamber.

We also stopped at Little Falls, population about 4600. Formed in 1811, Little Falls became a leader in the knitting industry and the marketing of cheese. Because of its extensive trade here, it was recognized as the cheese capital of the U.S. We docked the boat at a temporary free dock that welcomed folks to visit the city. Looking for a change from eating a sandwich as we cruised, we had lunch at Ann Street Restaurant. Delicious.

After lunch we walked for about a mile along the river until we reached a section called Moss Island. This piece of land is a popular place with local rock climbers due to its wide range of very hard climbs. It is known for its large 40 foot potholes, small oak trees sprouting from the rock and glacial structures. It was a bit hot for a walk but I insisted on checking this site out. The rock formation on the right displays the glacial striations pretty clearly. John was ready to try his hand at climbing but I said NO! LOL

Another interesting fact relative to Little Falls in the history of the aqueduct. The large stone column in the picture on on the left is all that is left of what was once a massive 24-foot long aqueduct that carried water and canal boats across the Mohawk River, connecting the original Erie Canal to a boat basin on the Western Inland. The aqueduct was eventually abandoned and in 1928 parts of it collapsed.

As we were walking back to our boat from Moss Island Jonathan and Morgan cruised by. Even in their slow moving sailboat (don't forget masts and sails have to be down through the Erie) they always manage to catch up to us late in the day. We agreed we would meet up at Lock 20 in Whitesboro, NY and stay on the free dock for the night. Unfortunately it was getting late in the day and we had to change plans and at least get through Lock 19. We arrived at 19 just before 5:00 p.m. which is when most locks stop running, and noted there was nowhere to tie up east of the lock so we headed through without Wayward Wind as they were several miles behind us. We contacted them to let them know to try to anchor somewhere. We were able to tie up on the west side of the Lock; we were absolutely in the middle of nowhere. Soon enough Jonathan called and said they tied up around a tree on the east side. These kids are a hoot!

Here are a couple of pictures of them and a few they took of us!

Day 9: July 27: It started off a bit chilly and overcast compared to the very hot and sunny weather we have had for most of the trip (aside from 4 or 5 brief thunder and lightening storms). At about 7:30 a.m. Wayward Wind came through the lock, getting an early morning start. We told them we would catch up to them somewhere upriver. Our plan was to lock through 20-22 and get to a free wall at Sylvan Beach which is on the east side of Oneida Lake. Along this leg of the trip, the river got pretty narrow and shallow in sections. While it wasn't as pretty as other parts of the river, it was unique in its own way. There were quite a few barges along the way, small dams running off the sides and lots of fallen trees hanging out of the woods into the river. We also saw many Kingfishers darting swiftly from tree to tree, crossing our bow and back again, all the while sending forth their distinctive cackling. It certainly looked as though they were playing with our boat as they flitted back and forth. We also noted many abandoned structures; what appeared to be old posts or docks where boats at one time tied up. As the river changed over time these must have been swallowed up by shallow water and shifting river banks and are no longer of any use.

The picture farthest to the right is Junction Lock. We learned the original Erie Canal went around Oneida Lake to the south but the present Erie was designed for self-propelled craft, so it was routed right through the Lake. To preserve the industries along the old route, this Junction Lock was built around 1918 to allow access to a section of the old canal. In later years it was converted to a dry dock and a huge crane and other machinery was installed at the site.

No sooner did we enter Lock 21 when the skies opened up. Nothing to do but hang on and enjoy the shower! Of course our raincoats are on board but they didn't do us any good tucked away in a closet. Lock 22 was only 1.35 miles from 21 so we smartened up and put raincoats on in preparation for 22. Both of these locks dropped us rather than lifted. We got into the lock and grabbed the lines and the doors started shutting behind us. At that point the rain slowed down and we saw blue skies heading our way. We continued west and finally came to our destination Sylvan Beach where we were able to tie to a free wall.

As we all know boating does not come without its challenges. Upon arrival John entered the galley to turn the engines off and noticed a squeal coming from the engine room. He is thinking it might be a worn or slipped belt but hasn't gone down into the engine room; it's way too hot from the trip. Fingers crossed it's nothing major.

What a difference in the landscape as we exited Lock 22 and headed to a much large body of water as we approached Sylvan Beach located in the southeastern end of the town of Vienna. It's clearly a boating community. While we saw very few boats along the Erie (none today and only one heading east yesterday) this is "boat city". It makes sense as it sits at the entrance to Oneida Lake. Pontoons, jet skis and more are everywhere. How things change in the snap of a finger. Leaving the narrow, slow paced river of the canal and entering a busy harbor feels like we went through the looking glass into a different world.