Day 74: September 30: Another sunrise, another beautiful summer like day, quite unusual for this time of year in Michigan. We won't question why but just enjoy!
Charlevoix is a quaint town, located on an isthmus between Lake Michigan and Lake Charlevoix. Lake Charlevoix is one of the larger lakes in Michigan that provides access to Beaver Island, the largest island in Lake Michigan that can be accessed by air or ferry. Settlement of Charlevoix was originally by fishermen as were many of these harbor towns. In the harbor just beyond the bascule bridge is the Beaver Island ferry company which transports folks to Beaver Island during the summer season.
We took a walk around town with our first stop being John Cross Fisheries. This small shanty store, tucked just up the hill from the fishing dock, opened its doors many years ago under the ownership of John Cross from Beaver Island. The Cross family was a fishing family and through the years, John owned and oversaw the operation of about a dozen boats commercially fishing, the local waters.
During that time, John and his wife Hulda owned a restaurant called the Nautical. It was famous for Hulda's fried fish dinners and became a favorite spot for locals and tourists. After their passing, Cross Fisheries remained in the family and is operated by children and grandchildren of John and Hulda to this day.
The small market was delightful; just as a family owned business should be. We chatted with the two ladies managing the counter and purchased smoked fish pate, made with 3 different fish: salmon, trout and whitefish. We also bought dinner for the next two nights; perch and whitefish as well as Drakes coating. I'm doubtful that I'll be able to prepare fish as well as the local restaurants, but I'll give it a try.
We then took a walk along the historical district to see the mushroom houses, designed by master builder Earl Young beginning in the early 1900's. During his long career, Young did not design blueprints. As an artist, he created homes that fit the landscape rather than force the grounds to accommodate the homes. His distinctive houses feature wavy eaves, cedar shake and thatched roofs and a horizontal look to them. I expected to find hobbits and trolls milling about the yards!
During our walk we came across a rain garden that was installed by the Charlevoix Public Library as an example of storm water management best practices. After being prepared properly, the garden was planted with a diverse array of about 1000 shrubs, grasses and wildflowers native to Michigan. At this time of year it had pretty much turned to grass but I loved the garden structure that commanded a prime spot, beckoning those passing by to take a look.
As we walked to the beach area I noticed this on the top of a house. Not a landmark for sure. I guess a very whimsical person lives there.
On the crest of the hill heading down to the shore is a rock with a plaque commemorating the Battle of Pine River, fought in 1853 between Mormons from Beaver Island and fishermen of the new settlement of Charlevoix. The clash originated from miscommunication and misunderstandings between Gentiles and the thriving Mormon community; continuing tension between them eventually resulted in violence. Fortunately no deaths occurred but 2,600 men, women and children's lives were certainly disrupted. I can't help but think about all the towns we have visited and how each one has something interesting to share if only we take the time to explore.
We continued to the park area which was surrounded by trees, an American flag, a play yard and a small venue where folks from the community were gathered, celebrating the South Pier Light's birthday with a fundraising event. We later found out more about the lighthouse and the ongoing work to maintain it. Music was playing, announcements were being made and happy birthday was sung in honor of the lighthouse.
All along the shore is a sandy beach. People were taking advantage of the beautiful Indian summer day; strolling along the water's edge, searching for treasures or just admiring the lake. We ventured down to the light located at the entrance to Charlevoix Lake, noting how clear the water around it is. You can see right to the bottom all along the walkway.
The South Pier Light has quite an history, starting in 1868 when a 100 foot wide channel was dredged between Round Lake and Lake Michigan in an effort to improve access into Round Lake and beyond into Lake Charlevoix. At one time a wooden walkway allowed passage to the end of the pier. Work to improve pilings and cribwork continued and in 1885, a square, open frame tower topped by an iron lantern was built in Detroit and installed on top of the Lake Michigan end of the north pier. In 1904, a 720 foot long metal walkway replaced the wooden walkway which was falling into decay. A fog bell was mounted on the lighthouse in 1909.
In 1914, the wooden lighthouse was relocated to the southern pier and a steel tower which held a lens lantern, was erected on the northern pier. In 1938, the fog bell on the south pier was replaced by a horn which sounded a two-second blast every 20 seconds. Residents of Charlevoix became used to the sound and began calling it Ferdinand after Disney's Ferdinand the Bull.
In 2005, the Charlevoix South Pier Lighthouse was deemed excess by the Coast Guard and it was placed on the National Register of Historic Places. No longer being used by the government, it was given to the City of Charlevoix in 2008 for preservation as well as public and educational use through the National Historic Preservation Act. The Charlevoix Historical Society continues to maintain the light; a "Save Our Lights" campaign to raise money for its upkeep continues today with the sale of license plates. The light was painted red in 2009 after being white since 1968.
On the sign posted at the light is a URL code, that when scanned brings you to a website that includes an audio of the sound the light used to give off. The recording is eery, a low bellow slicing through the sound of waves and wind. Traveling on the lakes, I am reminded of our visit to the Shipwreck Museum, thinking about mariners traveling in thick fog, feeling a sense of relief upon hearing a blast from the lighthouse sound over the roar of wind and wave.
We had fresh fish for dinner; although we are used to saltwater fish, we have grown very fond of the fresh water species which is so plentiful in the crystal clear Great Lakes. As we were eating we heard a bit of chatter, looking out we saw this party boat cruising by. Just another day on the water!
Comments
Post a Comment