May 27, 2024: Harlem River to Long Island Sound

May 27: On a foggy and drizzly morning, with the George Washington Bridge in the distance off our stern, we watched Paradise push off as we prepared to get underway also. It was bittersweet knowing they were in the early stages of their loop, heading up the Hudson, while we were finished and on our way home. 

We elected to cruise the man-made Harlem River, rather than backtrack through New York Harbor to the East River. Boaters' reviews of the river were mixed, from "wear a bullet proof vest" to "a river not to be missed". Being adventurous, and not looking forward to facing the turmoil in New York Harbor, we chose the path less traveled! 

The Harlem River is an 9 mile long tidal strait that separates Manhattan from the Bronx and connects the Hudson River and East River/Long Island Sound. Located at the junction of the Harlem and Hudson is the Spuyten Duyvil Bridge. We contacted the bridgetender for an opening just as we approached. Turning to starboard off the Hudson, we feathered against the strong current of the Hudson to motor through the bridge into the weaker Harlem River current which was then with us. This section of the river, called the Spuyten Duyvil Creek (Spouting Devil or Spitende Duivel in Dutch) references the wild tidal currents found here. 

The river, once a system of tributaries, wetlands and meandering shorelines, has been channelized and heavily impacted by industry over the last 200 years. Despite it being a pleasant river to cruise through, it has been cut off from the communities lining the waterway. 

With good weather with us, we cruised along the river's glass like water, having no trouble going through any of its 11 bridges; all with vertical clearance of at least 24 feet. Given the cloudy sky, we were pleased to see so many lovely reflections, creating mesmerizing illusions. 

Of note is the Macombs Dam Bridge, the third-oldest major bridge still operating in New York City. A swing bridge, it spans the river, connecting Manhattan with the Bronx. The current bridge was built between 1892 and 1895, replacing the site's first bridge that was constructed in 1814 as a true dam called Macombs Dam. Complaints about the dam's impact on the Harlem River's navigability resulted in it being demolished in 1858. The bridge was designated a New York City Landmark in 1992. Immediately past the bridge looms the Yankee Stadium sign. GO SOX!

We passed through the 207th Street Bridge, entering another interesting area known as Swindler Cove. In August 2003, Swindler Cove Park, a 5-acre park was created by the New York Restoration Project (NYRP), in an effort to reclaim open space for the communities, many of whom are some of the poorest in the nation. The park features restored wetlands, native plantings, a freshwater pond and tree lined pathways. It is also home to the Peter Jay Sharp Boathouse which is part of the rehabilitation project of the once spoiled waterfront. 

The boathouse, which reestablishes the historic presence of recreational boating, was designed as a floating structure in an effort to protect the fragile intertidal environment. With its construction, boating enthusiasts and spectators were given an opportunity to enjoy this part of the waterfront. 

Before we knew it we were exiting the river and entering Hell Gate, the narrow tidal strait where the East River, Harlem River and Hudson River converge. With autopilot on, the passage was not difficult, although the boat weaved back and forth with the rushing current as we motored through and under the Hell Gate Bridge onto the East River and eventually onto Long Island Sound. 

The Sound was splendid but only for a short time. Winds began to blow and the water became extremely choppy. With predictions of gusts up to 30 knots we decided to cut the day short and drop anchor. Turning to starboard we headed into Oyster Bay. The winds continued to howl for a few hours, spinning us around amongst the other boats moored close by. The storm increased, producing thunder, lightening and torrential rain before finally losing strength. Once it moved on we were able to rest peacfully.